Monday, March 2, 2009

The Dish - A critic's review of The Gardens of Taxco


Mar 2009 - For months we’ve been planning a dinner at The Gardens of Taxco but always fell victim to our busy schedules. Our dining friends have told us countless stories detailing their visits to the charming restaurant on the corner of North Harper and Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood. So last night on a balmy Sunday, we ventured out of Ventura County and enjoyed two wonderful hours with our friends eating a 5-course meal in the style of Mexico City.


The Gardens of Taxco is a unique restaurant, so different from anything we have in Ventura County. Each of the staff is very friendly and the waiter, robust in size and entertaining with enthusiasm provides a verbal menu service. Yes, we were very impressed as he explained there were no menus. Rather he would recite the menu with colorful signature sayings.


He asked us if we wanted chicken, beef or shrimp. Once we opted for a selection of each, our waiter enjoyed his descriptions of the dishes as much as we did. The chicken was “born in the sauce”, the beef was “tasty and juicy”, and so on. This was not your typical chain restaurant. We thought we were in Mexico.


When we arrived at our table in the dark cavernous restaurant, there were tasty and crispy chips, a signature Salsa Verde and a bowl of marinated vegetables setup precisely on our clear plastic table cloth. I only wish someone had mentioned earlier for it to be in our best interest not to fill up on the chips and salsa, because the gastronomical party was just starting. We ordered a carafe of wine margaritas that reminded us of Orange Whip. It took us by surprise, but the flavor was very appealing. You could drink quite a few of them as they slide down easily.


The restaurant offers selected beer and wine too. That’s when the complimentary quesadillas arrived. Each of us received a triangular slice reminiscent of a small pizza offering. Described as a light flour tortilla filled with a blend of cheeses, grilled & served with fresh guacamole, this appetizer had the


consistentsy of a soufflé or Chile Relleno. One could have eaten this quesadilla with some chips and salsa, a cold beer and called it a night. But the food frenzy was just beginning.


As soon as the dirty plates were removed, we were served complimentary bowls of Sopa de Albondigas – a fresh vegetable & meatball soup infamous to Mexican restaurants but seasoned to perfection. Each of the bowls contained a large meatball and plenty of vegetables and broth. While we ate our soups, we were greeted by a strolling musician with his guitar in hand. Similar to a solo mariachi player, he recognized our friends and offered to play some music. It was loads of fun where each of us sang traditional Mexican favorites.


Just than we were served complimentary Taxco Tacos – a mixture of grilled steak, onion, cilantro and salsa. It was accompanied by Enchiladas a la Crema that were prepared with their signature cream sauce, slightly sweet, but very tasty.

We ordered a second batch of Orange Whip margaritas. They were so good, we just had to order some more. We knew our main dish was soon to arrive but we still nibbled on a few chips and salsa. Throughout the restaurant you could hear the same waiter at other tables reciting his verbal menu with such poetic overtones. You couldn’t help but join in each time he said “tasty” or “born in the sauce”. We were having so much fun.


The décor is from years gone by. The restaurant includes a throwback to Mexico City, the tacky artwork with bronze sculptures adorning the dark walls, red glowing candles on the tables and popcorn ceilings. There is no evidence of modern pop culture at this establishment.


Our dinner was now served. The plates were large and hot. They were overloaded with beans and rice that were traditional ala Mexico City, rich in flavor and character. Our entrees included Chicken Salsa Verde which had been prepared in a fresh green tomatillo sauce. It was a bit spicy, yet very delicate. The Steak Picado was a non-spicy dish that included tender sirloin tips sautéed with fresh tomatoes, onions and bell peppers.


We ordered three versions of shrimp, each cooked to perfection. They included Shrimp Puerto Vallarta, prepared in a spicy cream of cilantro sauce; Shrimp in Mole Poblano, simmered in the most traditional of Mexican sauces, ground, dried, seasoned chilies, almond, spices and a touch of chocolate; and Salsa de Ajo Picante, sautéed in a delightful, but mildly spiced red garlic sauce.


No dinner at The Gardens of Taxco is complete without a complimentary dessert of bananas covered with a blend of three creams they call Bananas & Cream Rio Frio Style. It was served with a small glass of sherry to wash it down.

This restaurant is an excellent choice for a fun evening, but most importantly a tasty meal. The food was the most authentic Mexican meal we had ever experienced north of the border.


A complete meal averages $23 per person. With two carafes of margaritas, the total bill was $135 for four adults. Their website offers an early dinner discount of $14.95 from 4:30pm to 6:30pm Tuesday through Friday. Parking is at a premium; therefore, we suggest you opt for the $3.00 valet parking. The restaurant can be very busy on Friday and Saturday evenings. Reservations are highly recommended if available, located at 1113 North Harper Ave in West Hollywood.